It’s Day Five of SEVEN DAYS OF AMERICAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEYS, a week-long series honoring and celebrating the USA’s newest official whiskey category. The Tax & Trade Bureau’s ratification of American Single Malt Whiskey as a legally-defined subcategory of American whiskey was announced in December. It goes into effect this Sunday, January 19, and we’re counting down to the occasion both here and on Instagram.

All seven of the whiskeys selected for this series have two things in common. First, they’re all American Single Malt Whiskey, meaning that they’re made from a 100% barley at a single distillery in the USA aged in an oak barrel no greater than 700L, distilled to no more than 160 proof, and bottled at not less than 80. In addition, all of the whiskeys I’m choosing to feature already exist in my whiskey cabinet; I purchased no new bottles for the purposes of this series.

Unsurprisingly, that means that some of the whiskeys featured so far are old favorites, or they’re new expressions from a well-loved whiskey maker.

Today’s whiskey is neither. It’s a freshly cracked bottle from a new-to-me distillery, purchased on a whim while shopping online for another particular spirit. Since its arrival, it has held space in my cabinet, waiting to be opened and experienced and introduced to my palate.

That whiskey—or, as they prefer to be called, whisky—is the Peated Single Malt American Whisky from 10th Street Distillery. As someone who was introduced to whisky through the salty spirits of Islay, Scotland, the idea of a peated American whisky is enticing. So enticing, in fact, that I ordered this bottle with little-to-no research.

I can’t help it; I just love that rich peat smoke. And I got it with the 10th Street Peated Single Malt. The second I popped the cork the sweet smell of brine rose up from the neck of the bottle to tingle my nostrils.

I believe my exact words were “Ooooh.”

For a peat-lover, this whiskey is a delight. Made from peat-smoked malted barley imported from Scotland, it is aged in first fill ex-bourbon barrels for a minimum of three years. The distillery proudly employs a Scotch-inspired distillation process, using a double distillation and custom-built pot stills to produce their new make spirit.

The result is a golden colored whisky with well-balanced flavors of smoke, light fruit, and a hint of vanilla, like gently charred summer peaches with a dabble of cream on top. The smoke, while very present, is refined: not too brash and not too faint.

It’s a deeply enjoyable whisky, and has the awards to prove it. The Peated Single Malt won double gold at the World Wine & Spirits Competition in 2019 and Best in Class from Whiskies of the World in 2018.

And yet I found myself perplexed. Shouldn’t an American whiskey taste more….American?

Terroir is an ever-debated term in the whisky world. It’s the idea that a spirit’s provenance deeply impacts its ultimate flavor profile, thanks to the waters and grains and even the air around it.

Once upon a time, terroir was everything. Farmers, the original distillers, harvested their own grains, grown on the same lands where they were fermented and distilled into spirits. Water was drawn from local sources, and the closest woods or peat bogs provided any necessary fuel.

Even today, many distillers lean wholeheartedly into the culture and flavors of their regions. We saw it earlier this week with the Texas BBQ-inspired Stryker. Virginia Distillery relies on natural spring water from the Blue Ridge Mountains, while Whiskey Del Bac uses mesquite to smoke its barley for Dorado.

10th Street Distillery, on the other hand, seems to eschew these regional calling cards in favor of a flavor profile that can only be described as transcontinental. If not for the California location of the distillery, this whisky could be Scotch. I know that I’m sipping on an American whisky only because I was the one to read, open, and pour from the bottle. If 10th Street’s Peated Single Malt were placed among a lineup of peated single malt scotch whiskies, I don’t know that I could pick it out blind.

Is this still an American whisky if it’s made with ingredients sourced from 5,000 miles away, and if it doesn’t taste like what we’d expect from an “American” whisky?

Yes.

Even in Scotland, much of the barley used to make whisky comes from England or—even worse—continental Europe. The vocal commitment to using Islay barley that is heard from both Bruichladdich and Kilchoman is enough to tell us that their fellow Islay distilleries are likely not doing the same. Same with the peat that they still use to fire their barley kilns; while it may be Scottish, it’s not necessarily from Islay.

And yet we don’t question whether these whiskies are “Scotch.”

The truth is, terroir is only part of the story. Where the grains or the peat or anything else comes from is important. It plays a big role in informing and shaping the flavors in the glass.

The rest, however, is up to the distillers. Selecting those grains, mashing them, fermenting with their choice of yeast and timing, choosing the distillation temperature and speed, the barrels, the rack house location, and the length of maturation—every one of these steps plays a part in the final whisky.

For 10th Street Distillery’s Peated Single Malt, that all happened on American soil. It may taste like a whisky from Scotland, but it’s an American Single Malt Whisky through and through.

Sláinte, y’all.

In My Glass

Peated Single Malt American Whiskey

10th Street Distillery – San Jose, California

46% ABV; Aged at Least 3 Years

On My Desk

1961 Olivetti Lettera 22 made in Glasgow, Scotland

🥃 The Whisky Type is a self-funded project powered by equal parts curiosity, chaos, and whisky. If you’d like to support Carolyn’s questionable life choices and excellent content, buy her a dram! https://ko-fi.com/thewhiskytype